Simplicity 5996 in grey wools

My Simplicity 5996 in two shades of grey wool is done.  I’m pretty happy with how this dress turned out.  I think I like the red stretch denim one I made earlier this year more, but this will be a nice addition to my Fall/Winter work wardrobe.

Simplicity 5996 - Oct. 2013

Simplicity 5996 – Oct. 2013

I cut the same size as last time (vintage size 14, 34″ bust) and made some changes: (1) I combined the bust and bodice waist darts into princess seams that run from the shoulder seam to the waist.  I have a small bust and a narrow upper torso so these seams allowed me to tinker with fit right up until completion; (2) I added 1/8″ along each side seam at the waist and 3/8″ along each side seam at the hip and continued that to the hem of the skirt.  I also sewed the side seams at 1/2″ instead of 5/8″ because I think I put on a few pounds between making my muslin and the final product.  I figured it’s easier to take it in a bit than let it out.  (3) I cut at least three inches off the hem, as usual. (I’m 5’2″ on a tall day.)

I had originally intended to make a different belt, somehow incorporating the grey buttons from my stash, but I haven’t come up with a design idea that I like yet.  I’m sure it’ll strike my while I’m lying in bed trying to get to sleep some time soon, so don’t be surprised if you see this dress with different belt options.

This dress is fully lined (I line everything!).  I simply made a second dress out of the lining fabrics, attached the black cotton facings to the top of those and then attached the facings to the dress as usual.  I tacked the lining to the bodice at the under arms to keep it in place.  I used white Bemberg lining for the bodice and sleeves (more breathable) and junk black polyester lining for the skirt.  Both were from my constantly growing stash.

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One of the reasons it took me so long to start this blog – I thought about it for months before my first post – is that I hate having my picture taken.  I had to avoid the urge to crop my head off of each of these pictures. I did, however, crop out one of my dogs, Indy.  I guess I’ll leave the pups in the house next time. If not, my pictures will look more like these.

 

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I’ll post details on my next project – which is a bit of a stretch project for me – soon.  Happy sewing.

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Work in progress

9.18.13 In process

Work in progress describes a few things happening right now:  finally starting the blog that I’ve been day dreaming about for months, opening an Etsy shop for vintage patterns, and the purpose of this post, my latest Simplicity 5996.  My first attempt at this pattern is my all-time favorite handmade dress so far.  I made it in April in Ralph Lauren red denim with some stretch that I picked up at Winmil Fabrics.  Despite making a muslin, I needed to alter the bodice of the final product due to excess fabric in front – maybe due to a narrow torso and/or possibly just the stretch in the fabric?  This time around, I’ve altered the bodice pieces of the pattern a few times and finally have a muslin that I think fits well.  I cut the bodice in light grey mid-weight wool that I picked up at a fabric swap earlier this year and the skirt in dark grey mid-weight wool (leftovers from my NewLook 6000 that I finished in February.)  I plan to incorporate the two buttons, probably on a belt. I’ll hopefully start sewing tonight.  Happy sewing…