Holey (not to be confused with holy): defined as having holes.

Hot mess: defined as a person or thing that is spectacularly unsuccessful or disordered, but maintains an attractiveness.

This holey hot mess of green Irish linen is my second version of Simplicity 3559. It could have been a simple and quick make if I’d: (1) kept notes on fitting the first time around and (2) paid attention when overlocking the edges so as to not cut a hole in the fabric.

Simplicity 3559

Oh well. You win some, you lose some.  It’ll definitely get worn this summer regardless.

Pattern: Simplicity 3559
Modifications: Removed sleeves, turned under fabric on armholes to finish, shortened for length (as always)
Fabric: Vintage pure Irish linen in emerald green

My first version of this dress is below.  Thankfully this new one fits a bit better.

This is Simplicity 1301 in a floral Cotton/Lycra blend with short Ambiance rayon lining. I will definitely make this pattern again. I love the bateau neckline, slim fitting bodice, lack of a waist seam, and the slits on each side at the hem.

This dress has just two primary pieces – the front and back – which would make you think it’d be super-fast and easy to make, but it’s fitted with fourteen (!) darts: one on the front and back of each shoulder, two bust darts, and eight contour darts around the waist.

The wide bateau neckline makes the waist look smaller and balances the hips a bit.

❤️

Unfortunately, due to a minor cutting mishap (I moved the zip from the side to the back and initially forgot to add a seam allowance), I didn’t have enough fabric to attempt matching the pattern.

I love the invisible zipper foot on my Bernina.

I used fabric remnants from my last dress (my second Deer & Doe Belladone) as facings that I hand stitched to the lining.

I had to improvise a bit on the inside along the slits since I was unhappy with the pattern design. I chose to use bright yellow bias tape to conceal the overlooked (aka: ugly) fabric edge.

Pattern (Size 16; Bust 34) mods that I remember:

• Moved the zip from the side seam to the back.
• Removed 1.25″ in length from center back and faded to 0″ at side seams.
• Lengthened the bust darts by 1/2″ each
• Deepened the outer back contour darts by 1/4″ each
• Removed 5/8″ from top of back seam fading to 0″ about 8″ down
• Removed 6″ from skirt length and moved the marking for the side slits up accordingly.

This is Simplicity 5996 dress #5 – which I shouldn’t even call by name anymore since I’ve hacked it up so much.  It is made in a crisp cotton in navy with white butterflies all over it.    This version has a super-long skinny belt, a slightly shortened hem (though still financial services work appropriate, of course) and self-drafted sleeve cuffs. It is unlined <gasp!> so I’ll skip showing you her insides this time.

I’ve named this dress Sue, in honor of my mother-in-law, who gave me a weekend with very few plans last week. She also loves butterflies.

I’ve wanted to add cuffs to dress sleeves for a bit, but always opted to skip it to save time and effort. I’m pretty psyched to now have a pattern piece to use next time.

I’ve been asked dozens of times why I’d want to spend 10-12 hours making a dress when I could just go out and buy one. Well, one reason – and there are many – is because I’m pretty sure I could spend hours looking at a mall and I would never find a kelly green wool dress with lining that looks like a psychedelic frog. And if by chance I did, it’d cost a whole lot more than the roughly $15 I spent on supplies to make this one. Cheers!

Pattern: Simplicity 5996, again

Between the outer wool and the poly lining, this dress is very warm.

Tell me this doesn’t look like a psychedelic frog?!?!

My Simplicity 5996 in two shades of grey wool is done.  I’m pretty happy with how this dress turned out.  I think I like the red stretch denim one I made earlier this year more, but this will be a nice addition to my Fall/Winter work wardrobe.

Simplicity 5996 – Oct. 2013

I cut the same size as last time (vintage size 14, 34″ bust) and made some changes: (1) I combined the bust and bodice waist darts into princess seams that run from the shoulder seam to the waist.  I have a small bust and a narrow upper torso so these seams allowed me to tinker with fit right up until completion; (2) I added 1/8″ along each side seam at the waist and 3/8″ along each side seam at the hip and continued that to the hem of the skirt.  I also sewed the side seams at 1/2″ instead of 5/8″ because I think I put on a few pounds between making my muslin and the final product.  I figured it’s easier to take it in a bit than let it out.  (3) I cut at least three inches off the hem, as usual. (I’m 5’2″ on a tall day.)

I had originally intended to make a different belt, somehow incorporating the grey buttons from my stash, but I haven’t come up with a design idea that I like yet.  I’m sure it’ll strike my while I’m lying in bed trying to get to sleep some time soon, so don’t be surprised if you see this dress with different belt options.

This dress is fully lined (I line everything!).  I simply made a second dress out of the lining fabrics, attached the black cotton facings to the top of those and then attached the facings to the dress as usual.  I tacked the lining to the bodice at the under arms to keep it in place.  I used white Bemberg lining for the bodice and sleeves (more breathable) and junk black polyester lining for the skirt.  Both were from my constantly growing stash.

One of the reasons it took me so long to start this blog – I thought about it for months before my first post – is that I hate having my picture taken.  I had to avoid the urge to crop my head off of each of these pictures. I did, however, crop out one of my dogs, Indy.  I guess I’ll leave the pups in the house next time. If not, my pictures will look more like these.

I’ll post details on my next project – which is a bit of a stretch project for me – soon.  Happy sewing.